Archive for the 'Travelogue' Category

Veyyi Stambhala Gudi (’1000-Pillar Temple’), a Symbol of Our Culture. Thanks Ancestors!

I visited historic Warangal (ancient Orugallu) recently. And had a great time. The Orugallu Fort and Veyyi Stambhala Gudi (Thousand Pillar Temple) have history, architecture and sculpture and are probably among the best of Indian temples. Kakatiya dynasty, that ruled Andhra region from 750 AD – 1325 AD – for 575 years, still lives in the ruins of the fort and almost intact temple.
1000 pillar Temple Warangal

1000 Pillar Temple, Warangal from the front. Nandi is to the extreme left (not in picture). To the right is Surya’s shrine. The left side of the temple has Shiva’s shrine.

You can get a first hand of the dynasty’s taste for sculpture in Veyyi Stambhala Gudi or 1000 Pillar Temple. It has a catchy and apt name. Are there thousand pillars? Yes there are – of many varieties and sizes; some of them are even part of others! The pillars that support the central ‘Natya Mandapam’ (dance floor) are large and made of multiple blocks of stone.

The other catch is psychological. When you hear “Veyyi Stambalu” (thousand pillars) you imagine a farm of pillars. For my expectation, the temple was much smaller. More so because a mandapam (see left of the picture below), that contributes 400 of 1000 pillars, was dismantled by the Archeological Survey of India for reconstruction. Unlike pillars in other temples of India, pillars of the main temple, are tightly knit and form its walls and so don’t seem like there are 600 of them.
Mandapam 1000 pillar Temple Warangal

There’s the mandapa now dismantled. This picture was taken from behind the 1000 pillar temple, Warangal.

The temple is star shaped with three shrines devoted to Rudradeva (Shiva), Vishnu, and Surya (Sun). Interestingly, the third deity is not Brahma who is part of the Trinity of God [as in the Trinity (which consists of Brahma, Vishnu, and Shiva) in Suchindrum] because the Kakatiyas worshipped Lord Shiva and Lord Surya and not so much Brahma. On the fourth side is Shiva’s vehicle, Nandi or Bull.
Nandi 1000 pillar Temple Warangal
Nandi at 1000 pillar temple, Warangal

Nandi looking east (above). Carving on Nandi (below)

Unlike most temples in India that face east, 1000 pillar temple faces south. Because, the Kakatiyas, worshipers of Lord Shiva, wanted early morning sun rays to fall directly on Shiva Lingam. So, of the three shrines, Shiva’s shrine faces east and other shrines face south and west. On the fourth side is Nandi. Adding to the uniqueness, the Nandi in 1000 pillar temple looks east, unlike most Nandis in Indian temples that look west.

Between these four is the Natya Mandapam (dance floor) where dancers performed.
The guide who helped. 1000 pillar temple, Warangal

The guide who shared with me his knowledge about 1000 pillar temple, Warangal

More interesting is the architectural prowess of the Kakatiyas. Hearsay is that ASI, when it dismantled the Mandapam for reconstruction, found about 30 feet of sand and three wells below it! Unbelievable. This temple was built in 1163 AD and took 72 years to construct!

In addition to architecture, I loved the rich carvings and sculpture. You have to see it to believe it. The Nandi had on its back, a chain made of bells which seemed real. And the bull was life like.

Impressive Bull was a beginning. The 1000 pillar temple takes it to a whole new level. Enter the temple, you will see four magnificent pillars supporting the Natya Mandapam (dance floor). Each richly carved with exquisite designs. A pillar has multiple designs, 2 centimeters to about 30 centimeters, on the perimeter of circular pillar. They used designs of jewelry of the age. Chains, bangles, rings, crowns and the Kakatiya Dynasty’s symbol, Kalisam, can be seen one after another on each pillar. The design also had flowers finely carved. So fine, the sculptures carved gap between petals. A guide showed us such gaps by inserting a tiny stick into those holes. “This is how fine Kakatiya’s sculptures were.”

Main pillar 2 1000 pillar Temple Warangal

One of the main pillars in the 1000 pillar temple. You can see designs of chain, ring (ungaram), bangle and Kalisam at the bottom.

Kakatiya Kalisam 1000 pillar Temple

Kalisam, the symbol of Kakatiyas. You can see multiple tiny holes amplified by inserting a tiny stick into them.

Intricate sculpture, 1000 pillar temple, Warangal

Exquisite design on one of the pillars in 1000 pillar temple. The guide demonstrates how fine the sculpture is by inserting a tiny stick into a gap between two flowers.

The roof of the Natya Mandiram in 1000 pillar temple is a master piece in itself. It has Gayatri, the goddess of learning, and Chaturmukam (four faces) that guards against ill. In fact, the roof has 3 Chatur mukhas or 12 such faces in all.
Mukham Chaturmukham 1000 pillar Temple Warangal

NatyaMandapam Roof 1000 pillar Temple Warangal

Roof of the Natya Mandapam (Dance floor)

I have posted a few more pictures of the 1000 pillar temple. I hope you enjoy them. But seeing the real thing is an experience in itself. It taught me more about myself, from where I am and the about the legacy of my ancestors. Thanks so much for building such structures which could withstand the test of time and be there to show us who you were!

A parting thought. I discovered a great video on Kakatiyas called Mana Kakatiyulu (Our Kakatiyas) made by Dr. Ambati Srinivas Raju. A well researched documentary with video footage of all the temples and Sila Sasanas (stone inscriptions) detailing the history of Kakatiya Dynasty. If you are someone from Andhra or anyone from India, you will enjoy this video. Thankfully, they published their numbers if you want to contact them. +919849333795 or +91 9949568285. Get drenched in history!

More pictures of 1000 pillar temple

Some more! (Updated! Feb 23, ‘08)

Mumbai trains



‘Complex’ is what comes to my mind when I think about Mumbai trains. Complex because they touch lives of most in Mumbai. Because it rakes socio-economic-political issues. Because there are no easy solutions to reform it. Discussion on Mumbai trains is more than just about commuting.

The travail of commuting in a Mumbai train is well known. Just a couple of glimpses if you never heard of it.

 

Just try to imagine all these people piling in like sardines (we mean literally sardines) until there is no more physical space with the rest hanging off the edge of cabins. And then getting off the train is a completely different feat…you have to be mentally prepared prior to your stop and then since there is no space, you literally are shoved through to the other side of the train…it’s kind of like floating amidst a sea of Indian people. And of course, there are those lovely occasions where you have to jump off the moving train otherwise you will be stuck for a few more stops to come.


When the train was about to stop (but still moving though) one could hear screams of tens of people. The screams grew louder as the trains speed dropped slowly like a omen foretelling what is to come. And all of a sudden the entire crowd started moving out of the train like water exiting fire-man’s hose.


The Sport of Rush Hour Train Boarding in Mumbai

Everyone cribs about Mumbai trains. Some have got used to it. Some others were creative and took advantage of it.


Is anyone doing anything to improve the plight? Apparently “phase II” of the project is currently on with a spending of Rs. 3,125 crore (or $700 M). It apparently started around 2001 and the first phase, supposedly resulting in ‘reduction in overcrowding,’ should have ended by now. But the benefits are not to be seen. Whose responsibility is it to provide good commuting facility to the masses? How can they go home and sleep without addressing the problem millions face?

Some conjectures about the plight of the organization responsible for Mumbai trains

- It will be a loss making public sector unit

- Most probably a unit of Indian Railways without clear demarcation of responsibility or P&L

- Inefficient organization that can’t manage its costs well

- Cash strapped; debt ridden and so on.

Well, here are the facts:

- MRVC (Mumbai Railway Vikas Corporation Ltd.)’s net margin in FY05 is 45%

- Its balance sheet has Rs. 130 crores ($30 M) in cash (I doubt most of it has come from borrowings)

- MRVC is a separate company

- It is a public sector unit

I will reserve my comments on the issues and my take on how to solve them to a post I will hopefully write later. But one thing is clear. When trains are a compelling way to travel in a city in which road travel is not really an option; when users have the power to pay; when it is profitable to carry on business; when any improvement you make will get wide recognition; history is waiting to happen—to be written in the names of those who can see the opportunity.

A great long working weekend

What will you do if you had a long weekend, but had to work most of it? On Sunday last, I was particular to salvage it. I picked my camera and got on my bike. I wanted to get to the Marve road and find some good spots to shoot. I found ‘Kamala Talab’– a pond near by the Malad link road–a couple of weeks back. I was hunting for another fish. The problem was that I found many. The Marve road led to a beach by the same name which is home to a fishing community. Empty boats tell you the story. Evening is not a time for great fishing action but for a couple of fishermen sorting their produce.Image hosting by Photobucket

Unlike a usual Mumbai get away, I could not find many people around. There were some. But not up to the Mumbai standards. It seemed like a perfect setting—not having to wait in a queue.

 

Marve beach, to me, was truly beautiful. The ball of orange slowly and silently dipping into the blue expanse and vanishing for the day swept us off our feet. Good for them yaar! Atleast people can, after a gruelling day’s work, amble on the shore and the let the breeze recharge their frayed nerves. I miss it. (Gargi Chowdhury)

The beach is famous. Actually there are two beaches. The other one is usually crowded as it can house more and commercial interests ensure they use their capacity. When you go there the first time, you are likely to miss the Marve beach and go to‘theresort’ as the sign boards all point to the second one. May be that is good. Let the madding crowd to to the Resort. And the value hunters to the Marve beach.

The people there are friendly. They asked me to take their pictures. I was happy to oblige. Image hosting by Photobucket

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I spent an hour or so taking pictures, talking to people, and bathing in the evening sun light. And it was time to get back to work. I turned around and beauty of the sun set in my rear window struck me. I just then packed my camera. And I was lazy to reassemble it. But I knew, I wouldn’t let such an opportunity go.

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The gradient [This rope connected a boat to the anchor in the sea]
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[CS: A fisherman sleeping on road on his fishing net unaware of the world around him.]

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16 April, 2006. Marve Beach. Mumbai.

A post on Versova beach: http://trivialmatters.blogspot.com/2006/04/versova-morning.html
Information on beaches in Mumbai: http://www.mumbaisuburbs.com/mumbai-tourist/mumbai-sights-beaches-other.html

Gandhiji’s Statue, Sabarmati Ashram

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Sabarmati Ashram. Ahmedabad. October 2004.